The Mountains
February 27th, 2008Angus will be attempting to summit the following peaks on his 6-month project.
Mt. Ama Dablam
Elevation: 6,812 m
Location: Khumbu, Nepa
Description: Ama Dablam, whose name means ‘Mother and her Necklace,’ is located almost due south of Mount Everest. It stands out among the many peaks that surround the high valleys of this region.
Angus and his partner Scott Kress climbed Ama Dablam in November 2007. This 6,000-m peak, while an achievement in itself, served as their Everest “shake down” expedition. Kathmandu is also the main gateway to the Himalaya, the key place for Everest climbers to finalize logistical plans. This trip allowed them to finalize critical foundational tasks such as:
- Determining the best route on Everest in 2008 – The Northeast route through Tibet
- The key logistics person on the Tibetan side – Phil Crampton
- Best High Altitude Gear – downsuit/boots/glove system
Climbing Everest successfully requires that climbers have impeccable and consistent self-care systems. They must maintain their clothing, hygiene, hydration, nutrition, and sleeping systems to maintain their personal health. They must do this day in and day out, without running water, or a heating system, in a cramped tent with half the oxygen one finds at sea level. They must do this for 60 consecutive days while their bodies acclimatize to less oxygen in the air as they wait for a good weather window to attempt the summit. Climbing Ama Dablam allowed us to trial run our Everest systems, to find the bugs that need to be corrected.
Mt. Kilimanjaro
Elevation: 5,895 m
Location: Tanzania
Description: a dormant volcano, Kilimanjaro is the tallest free-standing mountain in the world. The summit offers a panoramic view of the surrounding plains.
This climb raised funds for the Amani Children’s Home in the town of Moshi, located at the foot of the mountain. UNICEF states that Tanzania, like much of Africa, has many children whom do not have a stable home to live in. Amani, which means peace in Swahili, was created in 2001 to care for these children and to create a support network to reunite children with relatives whenever possible. Angus feels privileged to have supported such a worthy cause. The Kili Climb for Kids raised over $75,000 for the home. More information about Amani can be found at www.amanikids.org.
Mt. Everest
Elevation:8,848 m
Location: Nepal / China
Description: Located on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China, Everest is the highest mountain in the world. It was first climbed in 1953.
Angus has quietly dreamed of climbing an 8000-m peak in the Himalayas for many years. Angus began his climbing career when he was 12 years old on a rock-climbing course at Rattlesnake Point outside the city of Toronto. Since that time he has persistently mastered the many skills required of a mountaineer. Over the decades he has learned new skills, first as a practitioner, and then as a facilitator. Many and varied skills are required of all mountaineers; rock climbing, cold weather camping, ice climbing, navigation, safe travel skills, and excellent self care skills at high elevations, all are required to climb high and then safely return.
Angus has apprenticed for 3 decades and is now ready for the ultimate challenge!
Angus will climb with Scott Kress. Angus and Scott met in the 1990’s when they both worked at the Canadian Outward Bound Wilderness School. They first climbed together in the winter of 1998 on Mount Logan. From that beginning they have gone on to climb other peaks, most notably Mt McKinley in 2003, the highest mountain in North America.